Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Acapulco, Puerto Escondido

It took me a little longer than expected to reach Acapulco from Mexico City as I've taken the "Libre" road instead of the toll road. I stopped 15 km from Acapulco as I'm tired, it's dark, and I got a cheap hotel right there by a restaurant, Pemex, Oxxo and security gards with machine gun to keep the place safe. I update my blog adding Mexico City and look at the gards just chillin out, and see a military check point being created. I was surprised to see the checkpoint gone after maybe an hour or 2 of operation.

Decmber 2nd
At the bank you see security guard with machine gun; very common here in Mexico.  
The traffic was a little crazy on the main road going around the bay. People honking all the time and driving anyhow. I've pulled over next to a beach with tables and chairs, to relax a little bit.  

I just took my tankbag off my bike and went there. I needed to pay to just sit down. Then ordered some Corona's. It was hot, the water was hot and the sand very fine. I've just removed my ridding gear and went swimming in my underwear. I've spent a few hours between the ocean and the chair. Almost like paradise, but the only problem is that there are more people walking down the beach to sell stuff than there are tourists. I can't blame them for trying to survive but it can't annoying after a while, saying "no" 3 times to each person, every few minutes. They are so many of them. I've asked the guy at the bank, the cop on a quad and the bartender about camping on the beach. It's free and police on quads are patrolling the beach all night.

I decided to go as had to pay more to just stay there, anyway I was hungry and needed to find a place to sleep that night. Went to a restaurent and I guy came over to bring me to an hotel for cheap. Realized as I've followed him he was a cab driver. He could not get inside the hotel because of the gate. I've found that gimmic a little suspicious, I took off towards another beach away from the central area. 
In traffic again. The light turn yellow as I'm in middle of the road, then red due to slow traffic. The 2 cops on a bike behind me decided to go tru the red light, zipping tru traffic to pull me over to tell me I've ran tru a red light and was zipping tru traffic.

Mr "wants a bribe" 
and his compadre "Mister shy guy", he did not talk at all the whole time, he didn't seem to enjoy his friend's gimmic. 
It was obvious he wanted money, cash, to let me go. He said he'll arrest me. For how long? Mr Pinocchio said I'll go to jail for 2 days and my bike will be towed away. What would you do?
No way I'm going to jail for that, beside, the light was yellow, it was a bunch of BS. So I play the game, I said ok no problem. He repeat again. No problem I said, I wont go to jail today for that. A guy came over to "help". With a little smile on his face he said: so you don't speak Spanish! Replied in French that I don't Speak English either. Two guys are trying to rip me off, I don't need another one.

The officer was on his phone for what I think was just fake call about my arrest hoping he'll get some cash. He was then talking to me, I was talking to him in French and he did not notice I was insulting him in my language. After maybe 20 min sipping tru my camel pack and them sweating like crazy, they ask me to follow them to the Police Station. Good. They had my driver licence, one of them, but I was thinking every moment if I should just run away from them. They actually drove out of central area, which make no sense, the Police Station should be in central, not towards the end of the town... They stopped on a hill in the sun, I stay far away behind, letting the engine running, 1st gear on, hand on the clutch. I refused to turn off the engine. They had to be in the sun on their guards as I can take off at any moment, while sipping water from my camel pack. He said he won't bring me to jail but I'll get a ticket. Said ok no problem. He repeat again as if I did not understand. Then he called his boss for what I consider to be the 1st time. I understood the short conversation. He gave my licence back and wave me to go, after a total of about 40 minutes. 

Not too bad as they drove me on a nice hill excatly where I wanted to go and the day is still early. 
I've found another beach where I could go with the bike.

Restaurants on the beach with sun shelters like that. Workers were there to move the shelthers towards the ocean. I met a fat guy named Francisco, he's the restaurant owner's son and was giving instruction to the workers. I decided to help. He found that funny to make a tourist working. After 30 minutes of digging and moving posts I ask Francisco if I can sleep there tonight. He showed me that spot, my plan worked and now everybody knows me.

At night there were polices on quads patrolling the beach, some workers stayed late setting up the shelters and the water came very close to my tent. Good thing I've moved everything away from the sea. I've talked to a friendly guy name Homar, he told me this is Revolcadero Beach and we were next to the Princess Hotel.

I left in the morning early on December 3rd. The road to Puerto Escondido look like that. Twisty roads, palms forests, rivers and villages. Going tru a village with my ABS turned off, I break a little too hard on a slippery road covered of sand and fall, again. No damage to the bike. I've just hurt my anckel a little bit, the left one this time. I think my dirtbike boot saved my anckels again for what I consider to be the 3rd time. 1st time was paddling tru rocks in offroad Baja, second time in Tijuana going between cement block to cut the lineup at the border going to San Diego.
I arrived in Puerto Escondido looking for the beach.
It's a very nice town, not as touristict as Acapulco, which I prefer anyway. Loots of surf shops, restaurents and smaller hotel along the beach.

I ask a few people about camping there, they seem to think it's ok. Stopped for food somewhere near the beach and met a guy from BC that came here with a 350cc dirtbike. I got caught up it's almost dark and haven't found a place to sleep. I went get some beers again near the beach and ask the young women where would be good to camp. She suggest to stay close to central area as many cops are patrolling at night. Set up camp, then 4 police officers with big machines gun came to met. They say it's not allowed to camp there and could be dangerous. Some people have been robbed in the past. Then the girls froom the beer store come, then the mom, all the sudden they were 3 or 4 arguing with the 4 police officers. I thing they were saying it's ok for me to camp there, but the police didn't to be responsible if something happen to me. They took many pictures of me and the girls for a report before going away. It's totally dark, I'm tired and I can barely walk with my left anckel. I decide to go to an hotel, to sleep better.
View from my hotel, people were very friendly and I think they gave me a good deal on the room.
I've left that morning very late after a very good and filling breakfast on Dec 4th. My next destination would be San Cristobal de Las Casas and I needed to get closer. 
On my way out of town took some pictures of Puerto Escondido. 
Restaurent by the beach. 
Surf shops, restaurents, hotels... 

Since I've slept at the hotel, I now wanted a free place to sleep, by the beach, I don't get tired of it! Just before Salina Cruz, a big town, decided to go tru a small road goinf towrads the ocean. I've found a very small fisherman village, similar to what I've seen in Baja and San Carlos, that's perfect. I ask a few locals where whould be good to camp, they suggest the small restaurant I did not see on my way there. 
That the restaurant. No electricity, no running water, but good people.  
As long as I eat there they were ok that I sleep right next to their house, under the shelter where tables are. 
They opened the ice box and let me pick a fish that they would cook in that oven: 

I set up my hammock. The guy did the same and told me if I need anything I could just wake him up.  
I left early the following morning, Dec 5th, going to San Cristobal de Las Casas.

1 comment:

  1. Allô Simon,
    Même Richard a parfois des difficultés à comprendre ce que tu écris... Si on a bien compris - Acapulco - c'est beau mais pas vraiment sympa! J'espère que tu ne vas pas trop te blesser. C'est vrai que les bottes te protègent mais ça fait pas de miracle. Reste prudent.
    Merci encore pour tes belles photos et peut-être un petit commentaire en français de temps en temps pour les gens du Qc, si tu veux.